Radon gas comes from the natural radioactive decay of radium and uranium found in the soil. The amount of radon in the soil depends on complex soil chemistry that varies from one house to the next. Radon levels in the soil range from a few pico curies per liter of air (pCi/L) to several thousands of pCi/L. There is no known safe level of exposure to radon. TheEPA) Environmental Protection Agency strongly recommends that you fix your home if testing shows levels over 3.9 pCi/L.
The amount of radon that escapes from the soil to enter the house depends on the weather, soil porosity, soil moisture, and the suction within the house. It is present to some degree in practically every home and work place in the United States. You can't see it, smell it, taste it, or feel it and this makes radon exceedingly dangerous.
Radon is the #1 cause of lung cancer among non- smokers. Overall, it is second only to smoking in causing lung cancer, killing over 20,000 people a year--over 2,900 among people who have never smoked.
We should repeat--There is no known safe level of exposure to radon. TheEPA) Environmental Protection Agency strongly recommends that you fix your home if testing shows levels over 3.9 pCi/L.
http://www.epa.gov/radon/healthrisks.html
HOW DOES RADON CAUSE CANCER? top
If inhaled, radon decay products that have attached to the surface of aerosols, dusts, and smoke particles, become deeply lodged or trapped in the lungs, where they can radiate and penetrate the cells of mucous membranes, bronchi, and other pulmonary tissues. The ionizing radiation energy affecting the bronchial epithelial cells is believed to initiate the process of carcinogenesis (cancer).
Although radon-related lung cancers are mainly seen in the upper airways, radon increases the incidence of all histological types of lung cancer, including small cell carcinoma, aden carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma. Lung cancer due to inhalation of radon decay products constitutes the only known risk associated with radon. In studies done, variables such as age, duration of exposure, time since initiation of exposure and especially the use of tobacco have been found to influence individual risk. In fact, the use of tobacco multiplies the risk of radon-induced lung cancer enormously.
The radon health risk is underscored by the fact that in 1988 Congress added Title III on Indoor Radon Abatement to the Toxic Substances Control Act. It codified and funded EPA's then fledgling radon program. Also that year, the Office of the U.S. Surgeon General issued a warning about radon urging all Americans to test their homes and to reduce the radon level when necessary.
Recognizing that radon is a significant public health risk, many scientific and professional organizations are able to say with certainty that thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths annually in the United States are attributable to indoor residential exposure to radon. These organizations include, but not limited to:
The American Cancer Society (http://www.cancer.org)
American Medical Association (http://www.ama-assn.org)
The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (http://www.cdc.gov/NIOSH/)
The American Lung Association (http://www.lungusa.org/)
The National Cancer Institute (http://www.cancer.gov/)
The National Medical Association (http://www.nmanet.org/)
The Vanderbilt-Ingram Cancer Center (http://www.vicc.org/)
Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center (http://www.mskcc.org)
These and many others have enough data to be able to say with certainty that thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths annually in the United States are attributable to indoor residential exposure to radon.
HOW DO I TEST FOR RADON? top
The U.S. Surgeon General and EPA recommend that all homes be tested. http://www.epa.gov/radon/
Option 1: The least costly method is to contact your county or city health department. They give away free test
kits. After the test period you will need to send the test kit to a radon laboratory and wait for the results.
Note: Users should pay particular attention to the set up instructions because if done incorrectly another test may be required, plus the time for the results to be mailed and returned. Please pay particular attention to placing the test kit instructions below.
Option 2: The second method is to go to your local building supply store, such as Lowe's, Lumber King, etc., and purchase a short term test kit. This is acceptable to many; however, these are not free.
Again Note: Users should pay particular attention to the set up instructions because if done incorrectly another test may be required, plus the time for the results to be mailed and returned. Please pay particular attention to placing the test kit instructions below.
Option 3: Use Advanced Radon Services, Inc. We have nationally certified testers that know how and where to properly set up the tester to give you true radon gas results. Our testing period is two days (minimum of 48 hours) and we have immediate results for you. However, we do cost more than the first two options. Call us for pricing in your area.
Self Testing Instructions: EPA Protocols
1. Do not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four days during severe storms or periods of high winds.
2. Close all windows and doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test and keep them closed except for normal entry and exit to the property.
3. Follow the testing instructions and record the start time and date.
4. Placing the test kit: Some test kit instructions suggest hanging the test from the hook provided at your normal breathing level. Many people think this is at 5- 6 feet. Actually,the EPA protocol says: Place the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in a location where it will not be disturbed and where it will be away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls. Since radon is approximately 8 times heavier than air doesn’t it make since to place the test closer to the 20 inches above the floor number rather than 5-6 feet.
5. Leave the test kit in place for as long as the test instructions say; and once you have finished the test, record the stop time and date, reseal the package and return it immediately to the lab specified on the package for analysis. You should receive your test results within a few weeks.
If you need results quickly, you should find out how long results will take and, if necessary, request expedited service.
REAL ESTATE TRANSACTION TESTING? top
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO SELECT YOUR OWN RADON TESTING COMPANY
Who do I trust when I want to buy a home and a radon test has been done? Don't get me wrong, 99% of the real estate agents are fine trustworthy people, but a few agents (remember they are paid by the sellers), especially in todays market where every real estate transaction is important, are notorious for instructing their home sellers in ways to beat the radon test. Remember that you have hired us to safe guard your family's health. We won't let you down.
How can they beat a radon test? Opening windows or doors prior to the test or during the test, setting the tester or charcoal cannister outside, unplugging the electrical cord of digital monitor testers, etc. Our electronic continuous monitor hourly test results show if the monitor has been tampered with or the power has been removed. When we read the results, we look for spikes in the readings, sometimes showing whether to validate the test or not. Real estate agents have been known to ask for a second test where they steer the uncertified tester in the placement of the meter. Understandably, you might get two completely different opinions about radon, depending whether you ask the EPA, or your real estate agent. Because you have hired us to test for radon, and explain the test results, we will offer our opinion and guidance on a prudent course of action. We will do our level best to safe guard your family's health.
Passive Short Term Testing: Take two short-term tests at the same time in the same location for at least 48 hours.
or take an initial short-term test for at least 48 hours. Immediately upon completing the first test, do a second test using an identical device in the same location as the first test. Fix the home if the average of two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.
Active Short Term Testing: Test the home with a continuous electrical monitor for at least 48 hours. Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
http://www.epa.gov/radon/realestate.htmlHOW DO I INTERPRET THE RADON TESTING RESULTS? top
Unfortunately, many Americans presume that because the "action level" is 4 pCi/L, a radon level of less than 4 pCi/L is safe. This perception is altogether too common in the residential real estate market. In managing any risk, we should be concerned with the greatest risk. For most Americans, their greatest exposure to radon is in their homes; especially in rooms that are in contact with the ground (concrete slab homes), below grade such as basements, and rooms above crawlspaces.
Note: Please read the EPA protocols for radon measurements in homes. They vary widely depending on what type test was done, how long it was set for, etc. Basically after following all the protocols, a reading of 4.0 pCi/L or over should require mitigation. http://www.epa.gov/radon/pdfs/homes_protocols.pdf
WHO SHOULD PAY TO GET THE RADON REDUCED? top
If you are buying a house, this is strictly a matter of negotiation for which there are no hard and fast rules. Some people will choose to follow one of the GOLDEN RULES. "Do unto others as you would have them do unto you", or "He who has the gold makes the rules".
No matter who ends up paying, it is in your best interest that you be the one to select the contractor and specify how the work will be done. If you leave these decisions to others you might not end up with the type of system you want. We have tested several houses that originally measured more than 100 pCi/L, that when mitigated were reduced to levels below 2 pCi/L.
HOW DO I FIX THE RADON PROBLEM? top
If you feel the radon levels are high enough to justify installing a radon mitigation system, we recommend installing a good quality, durable, energy efficient system. The EPA recommends that you have a Certified Mitigation Contractor install a system in your home to reduce the levels below 4 pCi/L. Certified mitigation contractors will assess the source of the radon and use the best method to lower these levels. Lowering radon gas levels in your home to a safe levels requires specific technical knowledge and proper equipment. Non-qualified homeowners trying to install systems could actually cause an increase in radon levels in their homes. Many of our competitors use the cheapest materials, cheapest motors, don't put radon u-tube monitors or labels on the suction pipes, etc. When we leave your home or work place after installing a system, we can go home at night and sleep well knowing we have done our job the best way we can.
(And the typical workplace is usually cleaner than when we arrived.)
HOW MUCH DOES MITIGATION COST? top
The best I can say is every home or work place is different and the cost will vary. We will always come to your home or work place, make an assessment, and give you a free proposal.
Do not trust persons giving you free quotes over the phone.
The least expensive system to install is a passive system as the home is being built. This can be accomplished with your building contractor making a simple phone call to Advanced Radon Services. When we install the system and we accept the liability that it will work properly.
Newer home with a concrete slab floor on grade. Usually with a newer home you have good dry rock under the slab which gives you channels for the radon gas to pass to a suction point and be expelled by the suction fan motor above the roof line--an older home may only have dirt.
Newer home with a concrete basement slab. Again, usually with a newer home you have good dry rock under the slab. Only additional piping and labor would raise the cost versus a slab home.
Homes with crawlspaces can be expensive. Porus piping is added in the crawlspace, radon resistant vapor barrier is added over the piping and sealed to the foundation walls. Then solid piping is extended to the suction fan motor and expelled above the roof line.
Basement and crawlspace combinations can be very expensive. Piping from each is combined and extended to the suction fan motor and expelled above the roof line.
Additional costs come when homeowners want piping extended through one or more floors into attic areas and through roofs instead of the easier system going to the exterior wall of a home or work place. When we recommend diagnostics be performed on older homes with suspected Kentucky red clay or when moisture is found under slabs or in crawlspaces, the price can escalate. You may need a suction pump motor rather than a suction fan motor. There is a large price difference between the two. Another problem is when we expect the building contractor to follow the Kentucky building codes and he doesn't, causing many problems for the home owner and the radon mitigation contractor.
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO RUN THE FAN MOTOR? top
The average fan motor will draw between 90-120 watts of power. The radon mitigation fan motor will run 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year for your protection. Specific to Kentucky, we have some of the lowest electrical rates in the nation and that means the cost can be estimated to be between $75-$150 a year...quite a bargin.
WHAT ABOUT RADON IN GRANITE COUNTERTOPS? top
POSITION STATEMENT: Science and Technical Committee of the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST), August 4, 2008........
At this time, the EPA does not believe sufficient data exists to conclude that the types of granite commonly used in countertops are significantly increasing indoor radon levels. Soil, sand, and rock underneath the home are the primary sources of indoor radon gas. The soil under a house always contains traces of uranium that eventually decays into radium that then decays directly into radon. This soil constitutes an enormous surface area for release of radon gas into the air and into buildings. Materials inside a building such as concrete, granite, slate, marble, sand, shale and other stones can also contain traces of radium that release radon with varying intensities. While natural rocks such as granite may emit some radon gas, the subsequent levels of radon in the building that are attributable to such sources are not typically high. The contribution from building materials to the indoor radon concentration is very dependent upon the building ventilation rate.
Read more... http://www.aarst.org/images/AARST_Granite_Position_Statement_8-04-2008.pdf
WHAT ABOUT RADON IN WELL WATER? top
Underground well water can transport the radon from the soil into the house by way of taking a shower, doing laundry, or washing dishes. The EPA says it takes about 10,000 pCi/L of radon in water to contribute 1.0 pCi/L of radon in air throughout the house. The ratio of radon in water to radon in bathroom air while showering can be much higher, typically from 100 to 1; to about 300 to 1.
WHAT ABOUT RADON IN CITY WATER? top
If your water comes from a municipal reservoir supply, you need not worry about radon in the water. When radon in water is stored in a reservoir for more than 30 days, the radon decays away to practically nothing. Every 3.825 days half the radon disappears through natural radioactive decay. http://www.epa.gov/OGWDW/radon/nas.html
QUESTIONS TO ASK A RADON MITIGATOR? top
Question #1: ARE YOU NATIONALLY CERTIFIED AND WILL YOU PROVIDE PROOF?
Answer: In Kentucky mitigation contractors are not required to have national certification. However, the Kentucky Radon Program, the Radon Program director Clay Hardwick (http://chfs.ky.gov/dph/info/phps/radongas.htm), and any city or county health department will not recommend anyone that does not have national certification. A new law requiring all radon testers or mitigation contractors to be certified and register with the state of Kentucky passed 6/20/05 but has not been implemented yet. http://www.lrc.ky.gov/KRS/211-00/856.PDF
Advanced Radon Services is nationally certified by the National Environmental Health Association (NEHA) and the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP). http://www.neha-nrpp.org/mitigation_template/KY.shtml
Question #2: ARE YOU LICENSED TO INSTALL RADON SYSTEMS AND WILL YOU PROVIDE PROOF?
Answer:. Many of the radon mitigation contractors do not have city or county licenses to install radon mitigaion systems.
Question #3: DO YOU FOLLOW THE EPA PROTOCOLS FOR RADON SYSTEM INSTALLATIONS?
Answer: Many of the radon mitigation contractors in Kentucky do not know how to properly install radon mitigation systems. They use inferior materials and even install system fans in living spaces or crawlspaces. http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/devprot1.html
Question #4: DOES YOUR COMPANY CARRY ERRORS AND OMISSIONS, GENERAL LIABILITY, AND POLLUTION INSURANCE AND WILL YOU PROVIDE PROOF?
Answer: "I think so... should not be an acceptable answer. In order for your company to be nationally certified, you are required to carry errors and omissions, general liability, and pollution insurance. Advanced Radon Services carries proof of a $1,000,000 policy.
Question #5: DOES YOUR COMPANY CARRY WORKERS COMPENSATION INSURANCE ON YOUR EMPLOYEES AND WILL YOU PROVIDE PROOF?
Answer: "I think so... should not be an acceptable answer". Kentucky law requires that all persons employed by radon mitigation companies be covered by workers compensation insurance. http://www.lrc.ky.gov/KRS/342-00/640.PDF Exemptions to the workers compensation law are: http://www.lrc.ky.gov/KRS/342-00/650.PDF
Question #6: ARE THERE ANY PENDING LAWSUITS AGAINST YOUR COMPANY?
Answer: There are none with my company nor have there ever been.
Question #7: DO YOU BELONG TO THE BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU?
Answer: "I think so... should not be an acceptable answer". My company belongs to the Better Business Bureau's for Eastern and Western Kentucky. http://www.bluegrass.bbb.org/RosterByTob.asp?ID=61026-50
Question #8: HOW MANY MITIGATION SYSTEMS HAS YOUR COMPANY INSTALLED IN THIS AREA?
Answer: We are installing 2-3 systems a week in our service area.
Question #9: WILL YOU GIVE SEVERAL REFERENCES FOR WORK YOU HAVE DONE IN THIS AREA?
Answer: As many as you require to confidently choose Advanced Radon Services.
Question #10: DID YOUR CONTRACTOR REVIEW YOUR RADON MEASUREMENT RESULTS AND DETERMINE IF APPROPRIATE TESTING PROCEDURES WERE FOLLOWED?
Answer: Advanced Radon Services will follow the EPA protocol to review the testing procedures.
Q11. CAN YOU EXPLAIN WHAT THE WORK WILL INVOLVE, HOW LONG IT WILL TAKE TO COMPLETE, AND EXACTLY HOW LONG THE RADON REDUCTION SYSTEM WILL WORK?
A11. I always do.
Q12. ARE DIAGNOSTIC TESTS REQUIRED BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE MITIGATION?
A12. That is a possibility especially with older homes that do not have any rock under the concrete basement slabs.
Q13. DO YOU COME AND INSPECT THE HOUSE BEFORE GIVING ME AN ESTIMATE?
A13. I always do.
Q14. DO YOU PROVIDE A WRITTEN CONTRACT BEFORE STARTING WORK EXPLAINING THE COST AND A DIAGRAM OF THE SYSTEM TO BE INSTALLED?
A14. I always do.
Q15. DOES YOUR COMPANY USE A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN REQUIRED BY KENTUCKY LAW?
A15. I always do.
Q16. DOES YOUR COMPANY PROVIDE A POST MITIGATION TEST TO MAKE SURE THE RADON REDUCTION SYSTEM IS WORKING PROPERLY?
A16. Some companies ask that you get a third party post mitigation test. You pay the company the total fee you owe them after the work is completed and when the test results come back there is another fee to return and do any more work on your home. If I use a third party to do the post mitigation test, I only ask for 50% of the fee the day the system is installed, and the other 50% after a successful post mitigation test.
Q17. DO YOU PROVIDE A WARRANTY ON THE INSTALLED SYSTEM, AND FOR HOW LONG?
A17. I provide a five year warranty on any system that I fully install. To maintain the warranty, I require that the homeowner follow the EPA protocols and test the system every two years using a testing device similar to mine.
Q18. DOES YOUR CONTRACT ALLOW THE WARRANTY TO BE TRANSFERRED?
A18. If the homeowner sells the home we allow them to transfer the warranty one time. If the home seller pays for the mitigation, we give the home buyer full rights to the warranty which they will be able to transfer if they ever decide to sell.
HOW CAN I CHECK MY CONTRACTORS WORK? top
Radon reduction systems must be clearly labeled. This will avoid accidental changes to the system which could disrupt its function. The exhaust pipe(s) of soil suction systems must vent above the surface of the roof and 10 feet or more above the ground, and at least 10 feet away from windows, doors, or other openings that could allow the radon to reenter the house, if the exhaust pipe(s) do not vent at least 2 feet above these openings. The exhaust fan must not be located in or below a livable area. For instance, it should be in an unoccupied attic of the house or outside - not in a basement! If installing an exhaust fan outside, the contractor must install a fan that meets local building codes for exterior use. Electrical connections of all active radon reduction systems must be installed according to local electrical codes. A warning device must be installed to alert you if an active system stops working properly. Examples of system failure warning devices are: a liquid gauge, a sound alarm, a light indicator, and a dial (needle display) gauge. The warning device must be placed where it can be seen or heard easily. Your contractor should check that the warning device works. Later on, if your monitor shows that the system is not working properly, call a contractor to have it checked. A post-mitigation radon test should be done within 30 days of system installation, but no sooner than 24 hours after your system is in operation with the fan on, if it has one. The contractor may perform a post-mitigation test to check his work and the initial effectiveness of the system; however, it is recommended that you also get an independent follow-up radon measurement. Having an independent tester perform the test, or conducting the measurement yourself, will eliminate any potential conflict of interest. To test the system's effectiveness, a 2-7 day measurement is recommended. Test conditions: windows and doors must be closed 12 hours before and during the test, except for normal entry/exit. Make sure your contractor completely explains your radon reduction system, demonstrates how it operates, and explains how to maintain it. Ask for written operating and maintenance instructions and copies of any warranties.
HOW DO I NOT VOID MY WARRANTY? top
If you decide to make major structural changes to your home after you have had a radon reduction system installed (such as converting an unfinished basement area into living space), ask your radon contractor whether these changes could void any warranties. If you are planning to add a new foundation for an addition to your house, ask your radon contractor about what measures should be taken to ensure reduced radon levels throughout the home. After you remodel, retest in the lowest lived-in area to make sure the construction did not reduce the effectiveness of the radon reduction system.
SHOULD I BUY A HOME WITH A PASSIVE RADON MITIGATION SYSTEM? top
If you decide to buy an home and discover an existing passive radon mitigation system, what should you do? Simply test the home and the results will let you evaluate the condition of the property prior to purchase. If the results read above the action level of 4.0pCi/L call a radon mitigation contractor and get a quote. Remember the EPA suggests mitigating to a level under 2.0 pCi/L.
SHOULD I BUY A HOME WITH AN ACTIVE RADON MITIGATION SYSTEM? top
If you decide to buy a home and discover an existing active radon mitigation system, what should you do? Simply test the home and the results will let you evaluate the condition of the property prior to purchase. Remember the EPA suggests mitigating to a level under 2.0 pCi/L.
EPA CONSUMERS GUIDE TO RADON REDUCTION top
http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/consguid.html#installtabl
